My wife got a once in a lifetime opportunity so for 3 years we will be living in what I’ve heard is quite an amazing bike town! Very excited!!! So at the end of August we’ll be headed out there. So keep an eye here as I’ll post some road trip pics and stuff.
Here is the interview Mike from the Locked In Show on YouTube did with me!
Let me set the scene here for you. Mike came up to my garage (shop if you will) and I gave him a little more rear end clearance. His rims are really wide so it made the 35mm wide tire both wider and larger in circumference. So he got a seat tube dimple! Now he has 3 mm of clearance!
Mike uses the same pedals I do so I tossed my shoes on and took it for a little rip. First thing to note was the weight, 18 lbs with 29er wheels and 35mm tires. Acceleration was WOAH! Second thing of note was the smoothness when seated and the stiffness when out of the saddle! IDK how that’s possible but… Columbus Spirit I guess. The third note is how cool eTap is!
Oh, also, it was 110°F before we closed the garage door to do the interview. So, call it 115° during.
Well, without further adue, click the pic below!
Two things for me to take away from this.
1. People tell me I really sound like this!
2. Mike is rad and it was really fun doing this!
The bike came out bitchin! Just wait till you see what he has in store for the paint!
Till next time, hug your kids, adopt your pets, do good shit like donate a few bucks to your local food bank when you can (some of your neighbors rely on that), wear a helmet, turn on your lights, buy something little for your partner to say you love them just be-freakin-cause, eat desert and say “Hi” and smile when you see people! Anybody! Doesn’t matter who or what they look like, what they’re riding, (or not riding), what color, religion or country they’re from because a smile is a universal symbol of peace and we need a shit load more of that in the world!
Wow, that got deeper than it was supposed to!
I got a message from Jorge that he needed help with replacing the DT shift lever bosses on his Surly. I’ve never done gear shift bosses before so this is the perfect chance to make a fixture for doing so!
Come to find out Jorge was referred to me by Jared Jerome of Jerome Cycles in Los Angeles. Jared builds some of the sweetest city bikes you’ll ever see so it was an honor to be referred by Jared.
Jeorge came up to my place to deliver the victim and we had a nice chat. Turns out this guys got a ton of bikes. My kinda guy!
When it comes time to design and build a new fixture you don’t have to twist my arm. Hopped onto Solidworks (which I am JUST starting to get a handle on the very tip of that iceberg) and put my ideas down on pixles. Came up with this little guy.
Took the model over to Mastercam and blasted out some high speed tool paths!
Then since our 4 axis was busy, I stood the part up and drilled the holes. First with a normal length drill and then took it up to level obserd with the really long drill!
Now onto the real thing! Here are the mangeled bosses.
Fluxed and heated the old bosses came off nicely.
Then I soaked off the flux and filed the brass off. Now for the new fixture! Cleaned up the tube and bosses, refluxed and rebrazed!
It held great! The bosses are colinear and level! Exactly what we want!
I posted a few pics of this on Facebook and IG and got some interest in this fixture. So I plan to knock out a handful or so more of these in the near future. Probably the last week of July (2017) so if you’re interested, shoot me an email.
$50 shipped in the USA (little extra for the rest of the planet)
So, as always, till next time, keep your frikin’ head on a swivel, turn your lights on day or night, wear a damn helmet and go have some fun! It’s summer!
A little while ago I got an email proposing a really cool project. It was from Mike Shrewsbury of the Locked In Show on YouTube. His channel is mainly focused on fixed gear products but he is starting to branch out to cover Mikes other cycling interests. Mike wanted a custom frame that could fit his long torso and clear a 700x35c tire. He had some good miles on a Specialized Tarmac and felt it was a very close fit for him. Mike most recently had a Specialized Crux which he liked but wanted a little crisper steering and didn’t need the bigger tire clearance down in Long Beach California, land of sun and sand. (and no mud really) He was also looking to keep with the weight (minus pedals and cages) at 17 lbs!
Hell yeah I’m in!!!
This was a job for Columbus Spirit! Many classic builders regard Spirit tubing as the holy grail of lightweight and ride quality so I had to give it a try while adding my modern twist. By modern twist I mean a sloping top tube, internal cable routing, no shift cable guides (SRAM eTap) and flat mount disc brakes! Oh yes!
Spirit, Paragon and Lewllyn lugs! I wasn’t able to use the lugs because I didn’t realize that he only makes this set for 1″ sterrers. So, Long Shen “Slant 6” lugs were a better fit. Thankfully Nova Cycles was awesome for the whole return/exchange.
Got to work with some engraving. A little Mastercam-ing and some CNC-ing.
Next I wanted to machine the “Gaviota” logo into the HT directly instead of a badge. So…
With those two done it was time to start on the Spirit tubes! They are so thin, lightweight and brightly finished I was hoping they’ll be as nice to work with as they are to look at and handle.
I used brass for the cable guide tubes in my VarcoCross build so I wanted to try stainless and I’m glad I did! I like the idea of using stainless on places where things touch the frame. I also needed to use some sort of cable guides reinforcements because of how thin walled this tubing is.
Sawed a set out then I finished the shape on a bench grinder.
I brazed the guide tube in first to make sure I got a good attachment before adding the reinforcement plates.
Out of order here but… This build will also mark the first time I use my frame fixture/jig for the entire build so there was a little learning curve for that but it went pretty smooth.
Paragon Flat Mount dropouts are great because you don’t need a fixture for the post mounts. Just braze them in. Here are the dropouts brazed to the chainstay but there are more pics of the flat mounts further below.
Because the rear triangle was to be short and the seat stays attach low, I needed a little bit of extra room up at the seatstays for the wider tires so I decided to give my fork raker a shot at bending these.
For slotting the seat stays to accept the dropouts I have a neat little fixture to hold two of them at the same time.
Now, seat tubes are only single butted so they are thinner at the top. If you are going to join the seat stay tops to the seat tube it isn’t a bad idea to reinforce the seat tube. I cut a section of tube and shaped it to mock the contour of the seat lug.
Ahhh, plenty of room!
Next up is the internal HT reinforcement.
And a few braze ons… (Water bottle mounts in 3 places)
Soak it and clean-up…..
You can see the flat mounts brazed in here.
There it is. My first Gravel Grinder build! And, it weighs just 4.25lbs!!!! For a 56cm!!!!
Check out Mikes channel for videos about this build! Locked In Show
That’s it for this one! Keep on checking back because I’ll post pics of his complete bike as he finishes the build!
As always, wear a damn helmet, turn your lights on and LOOK where you’re going! Have fun and ride safe out there!
Yes sir, the VarcoFrog! My buddy Lawson aka: Frogi was looking for a frame that fit him to be used in fixed gear road crit races and to bomb around the streets of the ATL on.
We chose Columbus Zona tubes because of it’s toughness, ride quality and light weight. The top tube is 7/5/7 wall but to add to the stiffness I used an 8/6/8 wall downtube. These numbers refer to the wall thickness of the tubes. Most tubes used in bikes have “butted” tubes. This means the wall thickness is thicker at the ends, where the junctions are and thinner in the middle where strength is not as important. 7/5/7 means the tubes wall thickness changes from .7mm at one end, tapers to .5mm in the middle, then back up to .7mm at the other end.
Miters need to fit tight even under lugs!
Vent holes. I’d like to make em bigger.
This frame has a 100mm head tube so the lugs had to be modified to achieve such a diminutive number.
Here my QC department checks that the seat tube slot lines up with the slot in the lug.
They’re not impressed.
120mm track width!
Doing a fastback again. I love fastbacks thanks to Ben Serotta!
Next is badges. I wanted to use the Gaviota logo and add some type of BB tag with name and number of the frame.
This Froggy is done!!!
Frogi is going to paint it himself so I can’t WAIT to see what he comes up with. I really like the way this frame came out and I hope he does too! I also hope he rides the shit out of it!
Have fun and stay safe everybody!
After I built my frame jig I noticed flaws immediately! It was almost too adjustable and I didn’t make a good way to release the frame from the jig while keeping the dummy axle in place. Ya doof!
So, with a little advice from David Saul from Diesel Frameworks, Joe Roggenbuck of Cobra Frames and good ole Google Images, I came up with an improved design that worked in my head. You know, the cool thing about frame jigs is that as long as the components of the jig are nice and aligned up, there is almost (note the “almost”) no wrong way to make a frame jig. Sure there are BETTER jigs out there but they all hold tubes at angles to one another.
David Saul makes jigs for other people and his jig was similar to what I had in mind so I asked him some questions. Getting advice from an expert is so paramount when investing some time and money into a project like this and I think it paid off.
Joe Roggenbuck made sure I wasn’t a complete moron when designing the rear dummy axle fixture. Thanks buddy!
Here is my first rev. You can see the rear dummy axle is just a piece of threaded rod and the HT and ST angles are not all that easily adjustable.
First to address was the ST angle and BB attachment. I ordered a piece of Aluminum and got designing on Mastercam.
Then onto the Horizontal CNC. Unfortunately we didn’t have the right inserts for our face mill so the surface came out a little shitty.
…and because I can, I did a little engraving.
I also added the upright extrusion on the right for the HT fixture but based on Davids experience I later changed that to slide along the main extrusion. You’ll see later. So, here’s the HT plate all Mastercamed up.
Now, I had to mount a frame in there to calculate the the bottom bracket centerline and adjust the cone accordingly on it’s 1/2-20 threaded center stud. In this pic you can see how the HT and ST cones are higher than the tubes.
Taking Joe’s word on using Anvil dummy axles, I got 137mm and 122mm. 137mm is for 135mm frames like QR mtb’s and 10-11 speed road bikes. The 122mm is for track frames as they are 120mm wide.
Designing a way to hold the dummy axles was the next task. The reduced center diameter is 2.500″ long so I machined the holder 2.495″ thick to allow the axle to come in and out easily. As you can see below there is a clamp that allows the dummy axle to be removed from the bottom by loosening one bolt.
Next I designed and machined a plate to mount the whole rear dummy axle fixture onto and it’s pinned into the slots in the main extrusion to allow it to slide back and forth easily.
Now, I mentioned being able to slide the HT fixture along the main extrusion. Well, it’s a simple plate with holes for guide pins and bolts. I made it L shaped so the weight of the HT fixture would be somewhat centered over the guide pins. The plate has a bunch of extra holes in it because it was once a machining fixture. Sometimes you just can’t turn down free material!
At this point it is a usable frame jig BUT I still need to mount it to some sort of stand. A mill vice on a plastic stool just won’t do. Haha!
Giving this a try. For $40 it’s a decent platform to start from. Harbor Fright! (Not Freight)
It needs to be about 20-25″ taller. I’m 6’3″ so this would work great if I had no femurs. I’m thinking of a height adjustable multi hole system. I’ll update this post as I progress on that. For now, I have to finish the “VarcoFrog”! A small street crit frame for a small, strong track racer named Frogi! Look for a post on that soon!
Eventually I will buy nice handles to make the jig easier to use but for now I am really happy with how Rev2 came out! Can’t wait to use it!
For now, keep it rubber side up! Have fun and ride safe! Turn your lights on and watch yo asses out there!
Edit: Raising the Jig! 3/1/17
I’ve never MIG welded before and this was a perfect spot to try it out. So, I hacked up the engine stand, drilled some holes, made bushings and went to the MIG welder.
This mod raised the jig up 16″as it’s currently set up. It can still go up another 6″ and down 6″!
I have another build about to be finalized so I’ll be throwing some Spirit tubing in the jig and making a light weight gravel bike!
I thought this deserved it’s own post. I had the frame powder coated and I couldn’t be happier with how it came out!
I run a shim in the seat tube because my son’s trailer bike has a 27.2mm clamp.
Green headsets are cool.
Now, onto riding it! The fit seems right on! Really comfortable. Steering is responsive but calm on the road and seems to be razor precise off road without reacting to every imperfection. The 425mm chain stay length makes for quick response and a “light” front end when it comes to lifting the front wheel over bumps/ruts/rocks….
These WTB Nano tires are AMAZING! They are smooth and fast when going straight on the road but they absorb a LOT of road noise and bumps. Even at their max pressure of 65psi. But off road is where they shine! I’ve ridden it on packed dirt, sandy dirt, rough crushed stone (larger stuff too, 3-6 inch stones) and rocky/rooty trails and the Nano’s have handled it all!
While I’m talking about WTB, the Volt saddle is probably the nicest fit for me I’ve ever found.
I went with a SRAM X7 10 speed derailleur because they are silent and cheap! Paired with an Apex group shift lever the shifting is really effortless. After going over 500 miles on a 1994 Bridgestone RB2 with DT shifters I only reached for the DT a few times. Surprised myself!
The Rival1 crankset with 42t Narrow/wide chainring is silent! I was wondering if the narrow/wide tooth profile would make for a grindy sound like a fixed gear bike but it is dead quiet!
Disc brakes are new to me and DAMN do they work! The BB7 caliers are like a vice to the 160mm Avid rotors! I still have to completely bed the pads in however.
Basically, a total blast to ride! And all with fairly low cost components. I have under $1200 total into this bike! Way WAY more satisfying than going to the LBC and paying $1200 for an off the shelf Trekalized!
If you aren’t the type of person who needs the latest iPhone or the biggest TV available, then using 10 speed drivetrain and mechanical disc brakes with a custom steel frame or a frame off of Craigslist may be a great way to get an amazing new bike without spending a ton. If you build a bike piece by piece from the ground up you will learn SO much about cycling.
I built this frame to closely resemble the geometry of a Cannondale SuperX. Slightly lower TT, steeper HT angle and slightly lower stack height than their 61cm frame. So I get a custom fit, and saved $7300! Some would think “But you’d get better parts on the Cannondale.” Well, I find it hard to believe that you’ll be $7300 faster on an 11 speed bike with hydro brakes!
Well, if you’ve made it this far, THANK YOU! I really do appreciate it! Let me know what you think. Leave me a comment.
Go find a trail and ride it! (and wear your helmet!)
Since #CrossIsComming and I have never built a disc frame OR a fork at all for that matter, I figured my next build should be just that.
The thought of a frame with a taller head tube, higher BB, more laxed head tube angle, more tire clearance, internal cables, True Temper tubes just sounds too good to pass up! So many new (to me) things to do on this frame.
The real challenge will be the fork. Never built a fork at all let alone a disc fork with a 15mm thru axle but hey, let’s give it a shot!
Starting with the frame, I chose True Temper tubing. They’re made in the USA and may be the last American bicycle steel tube supplier for a while. While the lugs I am using are made in Asia, I do try to keep frame parts as American as I can. That’s why I have Paragon Machine Works dropouts, front and rear. PMW’s low disc mount rear dropouts are so simple to use and look amazing! The front dropouts are their new 15mm thru axle dropouts. These dropouts work with PMW’s own axles too! They have rack mount tabs but I will be removing those. I also have a Paragon front caliper mount that has a long fork blade stiffening extension on it. While I am using straight blades it’s nice to know if I wanted to bend the blades Paragons mount would be there to reinforce the bend.
I really wanted to try internal cable routing. Nate Zukas (Zukas Cycles, Athens, GA) is an absolute master at this and he inspired me to do this! But I chickened out and only ran internal through the downtube and not into the DT and out the chainstays (through the BB). I’m happy with the results though.
I also gave a shot at carving a “V” into the top head lug. Why not. Looks like it was done by a 7 year old. Ha!
One Saturday I was home alone and I got started quickly! Knocked out 3 joints in an afternoon! I was pumped on the progress!
I needed to build some tooling for the chain stay and seat stay slotting. Joe from Cobra Frames (www.cobraframes.us) came through AGAIN! He suggested a set of V blocks with a pin to allow one V block to follow the taper of the chain stay. So I made a set and they work bitchin’! (I can say that now because I live in California)
They work like this:
I also am going to try a stainless steel headtube badge on this mother feller.
Cut in the shape of the S&M shield as I have relied on many S&M BMX parts for, idk, my entire BMX days. Even today! So, thanks Chris Moller for always making serious quality parts!
On to the seat cluster. This is, what people say, the joint that gives the builder a chance to show off his artistry. Since I have no artsy side, I figured I’d give it my all. But first I needed a way to hold the tubes in rotational phase and at the same angle. My non artsy fartsy side came up with this double V block.
The 5mm Alen wrench in the slots keep the two SS’s in phase and the V grooves hold the tubes. Then in a machine vice at an angle. What angle? Any frikin’ angle. This is art not math class damn it! Oh, that little strip is a chunk of leftover top tube. It’ll make sense soon. (If not already)
This little pic stitch kinda tells the rest of the story. (Now reread that last sentence in Paul Harvey’s voice. And if you don’t know who he is you probably have never cranked up windows on a car or used a rotary phone!)
Now just to braze the SS’s to the seat lug. Let’s get artsy!
I am REALLY happy with how it came out! I know I over filled it. Hey, it’s not the Mona Lisa that’s for sure!
Back to dropouts for a moment. I removed that little tab where the red arrow is just to make the transition from dropout to seat stay flow a little nicer.
I’m really happy with how the Paragon Machine Works Low Disc dropouts came out. I also like that I can get a longer derailleur mount from them too if I wanted to go up to an 11-40 cassette.
At this point the frame is mostly done. The tire clearance is sweet, rear alignment is dialed, front end looks good to the best of my abilities, happy happy! Now I just need to do a couple cable guides along the top of the chain stays and braze the head tube badge. Here is where it is today.
FYI, the top tube is not bigger in diameter than the down tube. Haha!
Edit (9/29/16): Here’s the mock up. 2° sloping top tube lookin good! It’s at powder coat now. Watch for updates sooooon! This is sitting now with a Surly Disc Trucker fork because I won’t have the fork done by CX season.
So, next it’s onto my first fork build! I already made a jig, I just haven’t used it yet. This outta be good. I need to come up with a disc tab fixture. Sure I could buy one, and there are some nice ones out there, but I enjoy making my own fixtures as much as I enjoy building the frame.
If you’ve made it this far you probably have little to do right now as I tend to babble about this stuff, makes me all giddy. And if you can get past my misspellings and ghramar errors then you’re a friking CHAMP! HIGH FIVE!
As always, stay safe out there! Love your family, adopt your pets and RIDE YOUR DAMN BIKE!!! Whatever you have, whatever terrain you want, however far you want, Strava if you want, wearing whatever you want (as long as you at LEAST have a helmet on)! Just ride. It’s good for your body, mind and the planet.
Our son LOVES to be on camera and to ride his bike, so why not mix the two? We ride bikes to school every morning. I think in the short .5 mile ride he is learning how to safely ride with obstacles. Having to go around walkers and to watch for cars turning into driveways and whatnot.
I ordered the GoPro brand handlebar mount from Amazon for $14 and was disappointed to see it’s made of plastic. As you can see it slipped during the ride, but I was able to tighten it up enough. His crossbar on the handlebars of his MiraCo BMX bike is 3/4″ so with a little piece of rubber it’s almost all the way clamped. I suppose if you needed to go smaller you could use more rubber. However, it works on my 1 3/8″ downtube without any rubber and hasn’t slipped yet.
I may machine myself a similar mount out of aluminum but there is a company called K Edge that makes mounts that clamp to 31.8mm road or mountain bars that is made in the USA, anodized black, red or grey for 40 bones! It would cost that to get material, program a CNC mill, buy hardware and it still wouldn’t be anodized so I’ll probably just get the K Edge mount for my bike.
We are definitely looking forward to having a lot more fun with our GoPro mount and it seems well worth the $14 on Amazon!
And as always, have fun and ride safe, Allan
Here is a link to my first GoPro Ride.
The camera was mounted on my seat tube like this:
On the ride home I tried more things. Top pic is mounted on the Top Tube and the bottom pic is mounted on the head tub .
So, I have built 2 of the 4 frames using full True Temper tubing and I must say that I was sold! Completely ready to exclusively use True Temper tubes from then out I stumble upon the news of their ceasing to produce bicycle tubing. I was happy with the straitness of their tubes, the finish, durability and the fact that they are made in the USA.
As a noob hobbyist builder this won’t effect me too much. Not near the effect it will have on all the full time builders who have used True Temper since their inception. Built a business around the fact that they use American steel and source all materials from the USA.
According to the article below it seems like I’ll be able to get tubing from True Temper through December 2016. I will use as much True Temper as I can for the remainder of that time. However, then, I’ll have to go another route. I have always wanted to try Reynolds tubes!
For now all we can do is hope the suits at True Temper see that the small builder market is growing and change their mind or sell the bicycle tubing “division” to keep the “Made in the USA” people going .
Enjoy, ride safe!